Breeding Canaries

Canaries have been raised in Germany for centuries and those coming from colder climate areas have grown to tolerate the cold. Even in rooms without heating, breeding is no problem today provided that the breeder keeps the rhythm of the birds' nature.

When acquiring canaries, it is very important to find out the environmental conditions they were kept in. They should be acclimatized to lower - or higher temperatures - progressively, over a period of time.

One should also keep in mind that newly acquired birds are going through the stress of moving to a new home. Their immune system will be compromised for some time and special care needs to be taken to protect them from draft and cold.

They should be quarantined from the existing birds for at least a month to protect both the existing breeding stock from an introduced disease, and to give the new canary time to recover and build up its immune system.

Aviary Breeding:

If kept in an aviary environment, they should be protected from draft and rain, of course. Covered aviaries are preferable - as they protect your canaries from the droppings of any wild birds perching on your aviary. Bird droppings can be infected with parasites, or bacteria and viruses.. Additionally, wild birds often carry mites. You really don't want to introduce any of that in your aviary.

Cage Breeding:

If you prefer to breed your canaries indoors, choose a bright area. Sufficient daylight is important for their health and well-being, as well as to bring them into breeding condition when it's that time.

The cage should be a minimum of about 24 x 16 x 16 inches (or even bigger for the larger canary breeds, such as the Yorkshire Canary). In addition to the normal cage accessories, such as perches, seed and water dishes, and sand or newspaper to cover the cage floor, there should be a device for making it easy to the canaries to build the nest, and a crib that contains hemp or burlap. Canary nest cups are available at the pet store and readily accepted by the canaries. However, do try to stay away from the "flimsy" ones that fall down easily. There is nothing sadder than broken fertile eggs at the bottom of the cage or the aviary due to that happening. The flimsy ones don't last long either. You may think you are saving money, but you really aren't - due to the loss of eggs or chicks and constant replacement cost of these cups. Of course, if you are a little handy and find ways to attach them securely - then why not.

Whenever you plan to breed, you should be sure to have enough room in your cages for the little birds even after they are grown to be independent.

Setting up Canaries for Breeding:

The male and female birds are placed in the breeding cage in the breeding season, which tends to begin in the second half of March. Soon the hen begins to build a nest. At that time the male starts courting the hen, the hen crouches down and they mate.

In a day, seldom two days interval, the hen lays four to five blue-green, brown speckled eggs. After 13 to 14 days of incubating, with the hen sitting on the nest, the tiny little canaries hatch out.

At this time, you need to provide egg-food to your birds, in addition to the normal seeds. You can mix your own nestling food using hard-boiled eggs, mashed - including its shell (for extra calcium) - mixing it with soaked whole wheat bread and maybe with grated carrots. Nesting food is available at the store, which can also be mixed with egg. To four cups of dry nestling food, add one pound grated carrots, and one dozen grated hard boiled eggs. Chop the eggs in a food processor shells and all. This is for about fifty feeding hens. Boil the eggs for twelve to fourteen minutes to ensure that no fowl diseases are transmitted to the canaries.

This mixture is given in an amount that the birds will eat in one hour. All birds get one treat cup per day of this egg mix. The supply for birds with feeding young is constantly renewed during the day. The nestling food with egg spoils very rapidly, particularly during the summer. It would be best to prepare the egg mix fresh every day. If this is not possible, refrigerate any excess immediately.

Canaries are usually good parents and both parents take care of the chicks, which they feed for about four weeks. At an age of about 21 days, the young canary birds leave the nest, start clumsily to move around in the cage, but proceed in coordinating their movements and start to feed themselves on egg food and seeds.

As soon as they are fully fledged, the young canaries should be separated from their parents.

Potential Breeding Problems

The Youngest Chicks Don't Thrive or Die: Female canaries lay one egg each day until she has laid all her eggs. The eggs will, therefore, hatch one day apart. The chances for the smallest chicks are diminished, as the larger chicks are stronger and more demanding and will, therefore, receive more food than the younger chicks. This may result in stunted growth and, in some cases, even death.

James Anagnos, an experienced canary breeder, suggests the following: "[T]he day she lays her first egg take it from her and store in safe place in a cup with some tissue or cotton. [Please refer to this webpage about properly storing eggs BEFORE incubation]. Take all her eggs every day as soon as she has laid them. When she has laid all [or her last] eggs, place them all back in her nest. She will now incubate all the eggs at the same time, so all the eggs hatch at about the same time. This will give all birds an equal chance. They are all the same size and strong."This will greatly reduce the chance of losing the younger chicks.

Sexing Young Canaries:

James Anagnos also found a very unusual way of sexing young chicks still in the nest:

"[S]exing canaries is very easy to do when the young birds are still in the nest, when [their] first feathers come in and their wings [still look like] straws. Just tap the nest with your finger and the female birds will just stay there looking at you, [while] the male birds will all put [their] heads down and stick [their behinds] up in the air. [T]his is 100 % foolproof. Every bird that put his head down is a male."

 

Breeding Crested Canaries:

Crested Canaries should always be mated to Plainheads.

The gene that causes the crested mutation is dominant, but a double dose is lethal. When one gene is inherited, the bird is crested. If two genes are inherited, then the bird's skull is deformed and the chick usually dies in shell.

From the results below it can be seen that you will not get any more live crested chicks by breeding crested to crested, therefore this is not recommended.

Lesser Goldfinch

Map

Audio

This very common carduelid finch of the southwest breeds in a variety of habitats at different elevations. It is often seen in small flocks feeding along brushy roadsides, particularly where thistle grows. Northern populations migrate south in winter, augmenting resident populations from southern California to southern Texas. It is often detected by its distinctive flight calls. Polytypic. Length 4.5" (11 cm).

Identification A relatively small, sexually dimorphic finch with a short, notched tail and a small, dark, conical bill. Breeding male: differs greatly depending on subspecies. In the “green-backed” hesperophila, the bright yellow underparts and black cap contrast with an olive-green back that can show some fine dark streaking. Narrow pale tips to the lesser coverts and wider white tips to the greater coverts form 2 distinct wing bars on a black wing. The white at the base of the primaries forms a white “tick” on the folded wing. The tertials are broadly edged in white. The mostly white bases to the outer tail feathers form distinctive white tail patches visible from underneath or when in flight. In the “black-backed” psaltria (mexicanus of some authors), bright yellow underparts contrast with entirely black upperparts. The wings and tail are similar to thehesperophila. Female: more uniform yellow-green, often yellower below and greener above, but less contrasting. The head does not have a black cap. The wings are similarly patterned to male, but they are decidedly duller. A distinctive white at base of primaries is present. Some females very dull and drab, mostly gray with some yellowish green wash to body; wings duller, but still with white “tick.” Immature male: It lacks the full black cap of the adult, but it still has black on the forehead (hesperophila) or has some black intermixed with green on the back and crown (psaltria).

Geographic Variation There are 2 distinct subspecies in North America. The green-backed hesperophila is more widespread in the Southwest, with black-backed hesperophila breeding from Colorado to southern Texas. Intergradation occurs clinally between Texas and Colorado.

Similar Species Males are very distinct from other goldfinch species. The female American goldfinch is larger and has white undertail coverts, a wide buffy lower wing bar with very little white at the base for the flight feathers, and a pale pinkish bill. A very pale female lesser can show whitish undertail coverts, but it has a different wing pattern than all Americans and is always greener than the female Lawrence’s.

Voice Calls: includes a plaintive, kittenlike tee-yee. Song: very complex jumble of musical phrases, often mimicking other species.

Status and Distribution Very common. Breeding: a variety of habitats at different elevations from arid lowlands to high pine forests, often found near water. Winter: northern and high elevation populations migrate to southern United States and Mexico, augmenting resident populations there. Vagrant: casual north and east of mapped range in Great Plains. Accidental in the East.

American Goldfinch

The brightly colored male American goldfinch is especially recognizable. The American regularly visits seed feeders, particularly in the east. It is often very gregarious, especially during the nonbreeding season, when it flocks to roadsides and brushy fields to feed on thistle and sunflowers. It is often heard in flight, giving distinct flight calls. Polytypic (4 named ssp.; differences slight). Length 5" (13 cm).

Identification A relatively large carduelid. Breeding male: unmistakable. Body entirely bright lemon yellow with white undertail coverts. Jet black cap. Black wings with yellow lesser coverts and narrow white tips to greater coverts, forming 2 white wing bars along with white edging to the tertials. White inner webs to most of the tail feathers. Pink, conical bill. Breeding female: very different from male. Underparts very yellow with white undertail coverts, while upperparts, including head, olive green. Lower wing bar buffy and quite wide. Tail feathers with white tips and inner webs. Bill pinkish. Winter male: cinnamon brown above and on breast and flanks, with white lower belly and undertail coverts, yellowish wash on throat and face, and muted black on forehead. Wings more boldly patterned. Yellow lesser coverts. Wide, whitish lower wing bar. Bill darker than in breeding season. Winter female: mostly drab gray body with black wings and 2 bold buffy wing bars. White undertail coverts and edging to tail feathers. Dark bill. Immature male: black on forehead reduced or lacking. Lesser coverts duller. Juvenile: resembles adult female. Unstreaked.

Similar Species The male is unlike any other finch in North America; the Wilson’s warbler is the only other bright yellow species with a black cap, but it does not have the finchlike bill or the bold wing pattern of the American. All other plumages can be separated from the lesser goldfinch by their bolder wing pattern and white undertail coverts. The female Lawrence’s goldfinch is gray like a nonbreeding adult female American, but note the American’s wider, buffier wing bars and different pattern of white in tail. The call notes of the American are very distinct from those of the Lesser and the Lawrence’s.

Voice Call: various, including per-chik-o-ree or a descending ti-di-di-di; given mainly in flight. Song: a long series of musical phrases, often repeated randomly; similar to the lesser. Not known to mimic other species.

Status and Distribution Common throughout much of United States and southern Canada. Breeding: a variety of habitats, from weedy fields to open second growth woodland, and along riparian corridors, particularly in the West. Does not breed over much of southern third of United States. Winter: populations from northern third of breeding range migrate to southern United States and Mexico, augmenting resident populations throughout middle section of the United States.

Keeping Canaries :

The keeping of Canaries for their appearance and song is a tradition that dates back centuries. With proper care, you will enjoy a healthy canary that will sing its heart out for you, and will be a pleasurable companion bird.

Diet:

Many veterinarians recommend a diet of 80% canary pellets. However, given the poor quality of the available pellets, most of which contain harmful chemicals and additives, a diet that is as close to their natural diet is not only more enjoyable for the canaries, but may pose fewer long-term health ramifications. A high-quality seed mix in addition to plenty of fresh food items (including greens) would be the best choice. Vets usually recommend pellets as they assume that bird owners will fail to provide fresh foods on a daily basis -- in which case, pellets are preferable to a seed-only diet. *Please note: When feeding pellets to your pet, please be aware of the fact that overly feeding citrus fruits (including oranges) or vitamin-C-rich foods to your birds can lead to "Iron Overload Disease" as vitamin C increases the amount of iron absorbed from foods and supplements.

All canaries benefit from a supply of green food such as lettuce, dandelion leaves and nasturtium leaves. They can eat any produce you do, with the exception of avocado. They readily accept and enjoy fresh fruits / veggies a lot, and parsley -- and dandelions are VERY good for them. You can get a lot of free "green stuff" (safe plants please!) from your own garden to feed to them - as long as the plants have not been chemically treated, i.e., pesticides, chemical fertilizers). (For non-toxic ways to control pests in the house or garden, please visit this webpage.) Care should be taken to ensure leaves supplied are clean and have not been sprayed with any chemicals. Canaries also enjoy little bits of fruit, but be careful to offer only what the bird can eat in one sitting, or you may wind up attracting ants, or hornets. (For tips on controlling ants in your house, your garden, or your aviary - in a non-toxic way - please click here.)

During the moulting period it is advisable to supplement their diet with egg food or nestling food (can be bought as a dry mix to which water is added until a crumbly but not soggy consistency is achieved. Some nestling or egg foods can be served dry, others are best served with a soak seed mix; this is a special mixture of seeds meant to be soaked, rinsed, and sometimes sprouted a little, before being served). During the molt season, your canary needs more fat in his diet, such as flax and niger seeds. Cucumber is especially good during molt too. After molt, cut back on the additional fat, and feed your canary niger and hemp seeds as their treat to motivate them to sing. (*Hemp Seeds are often referred to as "super-seeds" as they offer a complete amino acid profile, have an ideal balance of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, and provide an impressive amount of trace minerals - they also have the highest concentration of protein in the plant kingdom.)

Soaked seeds are an absolute necessity for the feeding hen and for the newly weaned young. They are a treat for all birds. Cracked corn, wheat, buckwheat, and safflower, normally too large and hard, are made acceptable to canaries by soaking. Soaking breaks down complex carbohydrates rendering the seed more palatable and more highly digestible. This is done by taking a special soak seed mix and adding two parts, or more, of water and refrigerating. Soak for at least 24 hours. Rinse well and strain before feeding.

Sprouts are not the same thing as soaked seed. Not all seeds can be sprouted. Most bird seeds are treated withpreservatives and vitamins and will not germinate. Seeds for sprouting should be kept separate for various species of plants have different germinating times and requirements. In addition to the regular bird seeds, many seeds for sprouting are available in health food stores. My favorite is the Chinese mung bean which is very easy to sprout and possesses a high degree of palatability for the birds. I have also used soy beans for sprouting. My birds do not like alfalfa sprouts.

Sprouting seed is the simplest way to provide your birds with fresh greens. For a few birds only a quarter cup of seeds should be sprouted at a time. Seeds increase in volume tremendously when sprouted. Place the seeds in a clean glass jar. Fill with tap water and let stand at room temperature for twenty-four hours. Rinse and drain completely. Repeat the rinsing and draining completely daily until the seed has sprouted. If a foul odor or mold develops, discard. Preparations are available to prevent spoilage. Rinsing and draining well is very important. Any surplus sprouts may be refrigerated up to two weeks.

Nestling food can also be mixed with egg. To four cups of dry nestling food, add one pound grated carrots, and one dozen grated hard boiled eggs. Chop the eggs in a food processor shells and all. This is for about fifty feeding hens. Boil the eggs for twelve to fourteen minutes to ensure that no fowl diseases are transmitted to the canaries.

This mixture is given in an amount that the birds will eat in one hour. All birds get one treat cup per day of this egg mix. The supply for birds with feeding young is constantly renewed during the day. The nestling food with egg spoils very rapidly, particularly during the summer. It would be best to prepare the egg mix fresh every day. If this is not possible, refrigerate the excess immediately.

Toys & Entertainment:

To ensure caged birds are happy, toys should be provided and swapped regularly to avoid boredom (which can lead to aggression and feather plucking). Most people keep males and females in separate cages, except during breeding season. When buying pet canaries, great care must be taken to ensure the right mix of sexes in a cage. A mistake could lead to the birds attacking each other, even to the extent that one may kill another.

In general, pet canaries do not require companionship; the canary species is territorial, not social, and does not generally appreciate company in the same cage. It will be seen as an intruder, not as a companion, and although it might take up to two years or so, if they remain in a single cage all year round, usually one or the other will eventually die. A male and a female stand a better chance of getting along amicably, but all too often the less dominant bird will eventually die, although it may take some time.

This is because the dominant bird will feel the need to constantly 'oversee' the less dominant bird of the two. It will never be able to eat, sleep, or drink its fill in peace, and eventually the stress will take its toll.

If a bird is present in the home and a companion is bought, it must be kept in a separate cage for at least couple of weeks, both for quarantine, and to ensure the birds get used to each other; the new bird can then gradually be introduced to ensure that no fighting ensues. A male and female will often get along reasonably well if introduced in this way, but should not be allowed to remain together all year round; each should have some privacy, during the period from midwinter until the start of breeding season in early spring, at the very least.

Two males will very rarely be happy together, although keeping them permanently in separate cages will prompt them each to sing more than they probably would on their own - however a good recording of canary song will work equally well. A cage with a number of males may work as long as no female is present, but again, they should not be expected to live in peace all year round, and each should be separated into an individual cage during the spring/early summer breeding season at the very least.

Male canaries can mimic sounds such as telephone ring tones and door bell chimes but only if they hear these sounds while young. Canaries can be taught tricks over time but great patience is required as they are fairly timid birds. To get the birds to play with toys, toys must be safely constructed (no sharp edges or parts the bird's feet could become entangled upon).

Many people keep canaries for their song. But what if they don't sing?

Are you sure your canary is a male? Frequently, hens are being sold as males, as it is difficult to sex them when they are young. The beautiful song of the male only develop as they mature. Many females do sing quite well, but lack the long trills and warbles of the male. Talented males and females can learn to mimic sound -- so much so that with a little training, a female's song can't be distinguished from that of a male canary.

Is your canary molting? Canaries don't sing during this time. Canaries molt (change plumage) once a year - usually during the summer. A molt should take no longer than 6 to 8 weeks. If it takes longer, then a vet should be consulted as your canary could suffer from a feather disorder. Since molting can be stressful and uncomfortable, some birds experience a decrease in appetite. However, an increase in metabolism to accommodate the production of several thousand new feathers can cause an increase in appetite. Whether they lose their appetite or eat more during the molt probably depends on their comfort level. Molting birds benefit from more quality protein in the diet which can be provided in the form of well done eggs, well cooked meats and seafood, as well as cooked beans and rice, which together form a complete protein. Additional protein and good fats are needed to create strong and lustrous feathers. This is a good time to grind and sprinkle flax seeds over the birds' food. Hemp seeds also provide beneficial oils and the essential fatty acids (EFAs) necessary to produce quality feathers. (*Hemp Seeds are often referred to as "super-seeds" as they offer a complete amino acid profile, have an ideal balance of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, and provide an impressive amount of trace minerals - they also have the highest concentration of protein in the plant kingdom.)

How is your canary's diet? Is the diet appropriate for the canary? Do you provide a quality canary seed, fresh fruits and veggies / greens; calcium / mineral & vitamin supplements? The basic, cheap seed mix at your local grocery store is not going to keep your canary in good health and singing. Click here for information on proper diet.

Is your canary sick? Is your canary protected from draft? Is he or she lively and social, or fluffed up and sleepy. A sick canary won't sing. If there is reason for concern, you need to take your canary to the vet.

Diseases / Illness / Toxicities at Home:

If pet canaries become ill they will rapidly lose weight and this is why it is essential to treat disease as quickly as possible. It is wise to have glucose powder and an eye dropper in store to administer drops of diluted solution via the beak if a canary stops eating. When a bird is sick, it puffs up its feathers to stay warm; give it gentle heat. You can often drape a heating pad over or under the cage, but be sure the bird can also get OUT of the heat if it wants.

Common household hazards include fumes from the kitchen (cooking fumes and especially fumes from non-stick pans)- canaries should never be kept in a kitchen for this reason. They are also sensitive to smoke from cigarettes, aerosol sprays such as deodorant, air freshener and polish.

Plug-in air fresheners or stand-alone fan fresheners are very toxic, as are some candles, especially scented ones (except unscented beeswax candles).

Avoid placing a canary's cage where it is in a draft, or be in full glare of sunlight without any shade available. If you let your canary out to fly about for exercise, always cover mirrors and windows, as they may fly into them and break their neck.

A number of houseplants/cut flowers are very poisonous to canaries (as are some herbs), so never let them nibble leaves of houseplants. Be very wary, as canaries love to eat greens of all kinds! Safe plants include spider plants, african violets and boston ferns. Clean water must be available for drinking and separate water should be made available for bathing.

Food dishes/cage parts can be safely sterilized in a hot dishwasher or in baby-bottle fluid such as diluted Milton. When it comes to disease, prevention is better than cure. Canaries should be examined for mites and, if mites are found (especially easy to spot around the neck and rump) they can be treated with over-the-counter medication (canary mites don't bite humans). Abnormalities of the skin and feet may be caused by mites and this can also be treated with over-the-counter pet medication. Be aware that dietary problems can cause skin, foot, and feather problems that may look as if they are due to mite damage, so before treating with any drug, get an experienced opinion from a good avian vet on the actual cause of the condition.

Adapted from Wikipedia.org. This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.

Grooming:

Canaries love bathing and should be allowed to bathe often. Offer cold water for them to bathe in, as it improves their feather condition. Warm water, on the other hand, will strip essential oils from the feathers, and may encourage itching and picking, rather than preening. Plentiful time to bathe is especially important to a canary during the moult.

The Canary in Captivity:

Canaries are absolutely delightful beings and fun characters to watch.

I found them to be very social beings. A little "friendly" fight here and there with their cage or aviary co-habitants, but generally they get along really well and are non-aggressive. They make very pretty aviary birds - and the melodious song of the males add a lot to the charm of an aviary.

 They are never going to be "cuddly pets"

.. and I know, having handfed some of them from day 1 - they do become quite confiding. They make a great choice for people who enjoy watching birds rather than having a demanding pet that requires a lot of personal attention.

 Housing Your Canary:

I hate to see them in small cages. Since these are birds that will just about ALWAYS be in a cage, I would hope that people give them a roomy flight cage, maybe with some plants in it too for the canaries to enjoy. They should be able to fly. Make it a "project" to prepare an attractive flight cage for them, with lots of toys (no STRING toys though that might strangle them) and natural branches, maybe some plants.
Your canary should be kept in a room with plenty of natural light.  Do not place cage near a window where he may get a cold draft.  Since a male canary's singing is stimulated by people movements, keep your canary in a room you occupy frequently.
You canary needs plenty of exercise and should be kept in a rectangular cage at least 10 inches wide and 17 inches long.
Be sure to cover your canary's cage  at night so the light stops with the sunset.  This keeps him in tune with the seasons.

beautiful photos ( goldfinch)

Keeping and Raising European Goldfinches

The famous bird of European antiquity is the European Goldfinch. It can be seen in paintings in most major museums in Europe and the world. It's lovely cheerfulness, perky charm, and delight to both the eye and the ear was perhaps replaced by the canary only because the canary is a more cooperative bird to raise in captivity. That does not mean that the goldfinch is delicate in any way. There are a few special feeding requirements which can be easily satisfied, and breeding them is a bit more challenging. The canary is an easier breeder. The goldfinch remains popular in Europe, but doesn't seem to be well understood in America, probably because the canary won over here in America. There are several lovely advantages that the goldfinch has over the canary, however, and I would love to see the bird revived. Their song is a delight. It may be less sensuous than the canary, but it is always different and never repetitious to the careful listener. I know no bird that sounds as cheerful and happy. I could do without my canaries, but I could not do without my goldfinches! Trying to describe bird song seems futile, but it's faster and more varied in every way. They can be kept in a canary cage, but they need a larger cage or aviary for breeding. As they are so perky, they are more fun to watch in a larger cage. They may sing more in a canary cage, however. They can be seen hanging to the sides, tops, any place in the cage, which doesn't mean that they want to get out. They are use to hanging upside down and every which way on their favorite plants, the teasel and thistle. They are a lot more acrobatic than canaries. Their color may be less gaudy than the canary in some peoples eyes, but the red, white, and black face, black & white wings and tail, with the splashes of gold, (orange, if you color feed them) rich brown back and buff brown belly makes them no slouches to look at. The better I know them, the more I love the way they look. If you see a goldfinch in a store that looks like it's on the way out, you can revive it. They will not last long on either a canary or a finch diet, but have special diet requirements. Pet store owners usually do not know this.  You should consider whether you want to go through a bit of extra work, but it's easy enough to do, and very well worth it. The first thing to do is find a seed mixture that has a lot of niger. I think buying wild bird thistle from a Jewel store is adequate, but I was told that it's a lower quality. An excellent mixture is Kellogs song food, and it can be bought in the bulk size right for you. Check with your pet store. The next major seed is sunflower hearts. Many pet stores don't seem to carry them, but perhaps you can special order it. I buy mine at a food store. I've seen it with wild bird seeds in nursery stores, farmer type stores. If you have trouble, I'd use the yellow pages. Once you find it, your in business, though! I'm sure this is enough seed variety, but if you can, you can add hulled oats, hemp, teasel (it grows wild around Chicago), weed seeds of many kinds, spray millet, etc. However, as I said, canary or finch seed alone is not sufficient. I can't get mine to touch canary seed, although many books recommend it. Goldfinches need a lot of greens, every day. Canaries can survive without them, but not goldfinches. Standard greens like broccoli or bok choy work, but during the summer it seems like they can't get enough dandelions, and you can pick all you want off your neighbors’ lawn. They also eat some spruce or pine. They love spring tree buds, especially elm and willow. They are a bit messy, but the birds love them. The dandelions are the easiest in summer. Goldfinches also like a lot of egg food. I'm sure that commercial egg food is fine, but if you have time, you can save pennies by making your own, and it may be more healthy. I boil eggs for at least 15 minutes, shred with their shells, which supply calcium, and mix in about 1/3 Kellogs petamine, so that it will dry out before it sours. I put this in those tiny treat cups every day. I also mix in a bit of nikon vitamins here. If you follow these directions, your goldfinch will revive and be silken and beautiful in one season. Breeding them is a greater challenge, however, it's so rewarding, if you try it for fun. I really am in favor of keeping a captive population, so I very much recommend you try it, perhaps after you've given them a year to acclimatize. If you get captive bred birds, you won't have to wait. To begin with, you would need a male and a female! If you have a pair, it is easy to tell which is which, as the female has a little less of everything. -just a little, however. Unlike the canary, she does sing a bit even, but not as fully as the male. If you're buying a pair, it's more challenging, as it's a matter of degree. There is an area of the extended wing which is supposed to be a full proof way of sewing them. Brownish on the female, black on the male. They need a fairly large cage to breed, and books usually recommend an aviary. I use cages, however, which are two feet long and one and one half foot deep. The larger, the better. I keep the pair together all year, and they are really fun to watch in that size cage. Goldfinches are late breeders, and I recommend that sometime in March you add artificial light and extend the day gradually until 8:00 pm. (9:00 dst). That will extend the breeding season. The nest is a canary basket, the smallest size. Sew in two nest liners, being careful not to leave thread inside the basket. They have a way of twizzling their feet into everything. I've lost several females that way. You can put it in when you notice the black on the tips of their beaks disappear, when you notice the female carrying things around, or when you feel like it. As much as they like hair, even dog hair, I will never use it, because they twist it around their feet. As I said, I've lost several females that way. I find the best nesting material to be burlap, cut into four inch squares and pulled apart. Some Burlap sacks have nylon strands in them which I toss out. They might also use coco fibers, although I think they would be happy with just burlap and toilet tissue, torn up very small. I haven't seen them use bermuda grass, feathers, or sphagnum moss, although I've been told that they may. I've just heard of corn husks, but don't have any this year. The female does all the egg work, you do none. I don't candle eggs, or handle them at all. I think it's all up to her. I also don't remove eggs. She just gets peace & quiet. About this time I add 8 in 1 nesting food into the egg mixture, with the Kellogs Petamine (about 50/50). I also give them wax worms, and give them all they want when the babies hatch. I don't know that this is necessary, but I fuss over them! Watch the male at this time, as I have had aggressive males toss out baby birds, I think in frustration. The female can handle everything by herself, and you can take him out as soon as she's finished laying eggs, if you wish. The babies are so exciting, but I don't disturb them at all, and, once again let the female do all the work. I know someone who has had fed babies, but I can't imagine it! All I do is trust the great cosmos, but I do remove the male if he is the slightest bit disturbing. This year I may just move them out and be safe. Of course if you have more than one pair, don't get them mixed up! If they jump out of the nest when they're only half grown, you can leave them out. Mama will take care of them. Just watch that they don't get snagged on something. They're tougher than they look at that stage, although it's nerve wrecking to go though. I put the male back when they start becoming self sufficient and start looking like birds. They will be solid gray, and are called gray pates at this stage. By the way, you don't say flock of goldfinches, you say, chorus of goldfinches. I guess when to remove them, but when the female starts becoming interested in the nest again, I try to balance that out, so far with good luck. There are a number of things which can go wrong, and if they do, I just start over again next time. Thinking of the reward when I succeed. Best of luck, please feel free to email me with any questions or comments of any kind. I welcome it. The work may be more than with some other finches, but look at what you get!